
06 Dec 2024
The Garden Room at the Kimpton Hotel is a magical setting for any occasion. But add to this unique dining space an imaginative six-course tasting menu featuring local and seasonal produce, and it’s no wonder that Aizle has rooted itself as a firm favourite among Edinburgh’s foodies.
These are the Scots’ translations of the word Aizle, aptly chosen to represent this restaurant on Charlotte Square. And it’s a pretty sparky concept. Diners are met with a list of ingredients, those not to their taste can be discarded, allowing the chefs free reign with the remainder. These ingredients change with the seasons, but the kind of items you might expect to find include Koji, a Japanese speciality made from grain and fermented; beef tartare; Lanark blue made with local ewe’s milk; Morels (wee mushrooms grown in the wild with an earthy, nutty flavour); Isle of Wight tomatoes; Exmoor ‘New World’ caviar; Loch Etive trout and trout roe; Goosnargh duck; and heritage carrots.
You may recognise Aizle’s chef-patron from the Great British Menu 2022 (series 16 and 17). Together with his wife Krystal, he opened the Michelin-recommended bistro back in 2014, after working at top international restaurants in Barbados and New York. And he’s known for his commitment to staff welfare, introducing a four-day week for all of those working in the restaurant. It shows Ralston’s approach is modern in every way, from the food to the commendable culture he creates in his restaurants.
The outside is brought in at the Eden-like Garden Room, where once inside, you’ll find it hard to believe you’re in the heart of the bustling New Town. Foliage drapes from the conservatory ceiling, light pours in and stylish, wicker and rattan furnishings with colourful cushions echo an earthy vibe. Yet it also has an upscale feel, situated in the well-heeled Kimpton hotel, with a grand Georgian frontage. Diners may be familiar with the independent venue’s sister restaurant, Noto. Both have garnered a loyal army of fans and stellar reputations on the national food scene. It’s family-friendly too, with children over the age of three welcomed. And with reservations starting at 5pm (running through to 8.30pm), the timing is conducive to introducing younger gourmands to some fine food. Aizle is open from Wednesday to Sunday.
Ingredients used can change on a sometimes daily basis, according to the local growers’ micro-climate. And as the kitchen utilises every part of the produce received, you can be sure of a sustainable supper — and the variance means the courses are conducive to regular bookings (you’ll never grow tired of this menu). Some items, like edible flowers, are foraged from the Lothians’ natural larder. Dishes are presented in style, with large plates framing the artful displays. The restaurant has a beautiful range of handmade crockery and loves to add some theatrics to proceedings, with the addition of bird nest-style receptacles.
We can’t predict what you’ll be served at Aizle, which is a large part of the charm. But some fantastic dishes we’ve spotted recently include the Tete de Cochon coated in rice flakes, with Sabayon, Espelette powder, burnt apple puree, and garnished with Nasturtiums; and Isle of Mull cheese croustade with Ramson capers, smoked eel with pickled beetroot on a sweet potato cracker, paired with dulse and celeriac taco filled with cured sea trout and sea buckthorn ponzu. Even the bread is epic, with the likes of laminated brioche made with Mungoswells flour and cultured butter. And before the curtain falls on your meal, you’ll be brought a box of travel-inspired petit fours and hand-painted bonbons that look too good to eat (but eat them you must, because they taste amazing too).
Aizle’s tasting menu is priced at £85 per person, with the option of paired drinks for £60 per person. Vegetarian, pescatarian, dairy-free, gluten-free, pregnancy requirements, no seafood and nut allergies can all be accommodated with advance notice. However, as this is an adventurous dining experience where you place your taste buds in the chef’s hands, it’s not one for those who are picky or want to choose what they’ll eat in advance. It’s all about putting the kitchen in the driving seat, and boy does it pay off. If you enjoy a more mysterious meal or find trying to choose a tricky chore, the menu here is sure to delight you.