03 Dec 2024
Edinburgh's must-visit fine dining destination
Since opening in 2015, The Table, on Dundas Street, has become the go-to interactive fine dining experience in Edinburgh. Owned and run by chef Sean Clark, the restaurant offers adventurous seven-course culinary experiences, with the added benefit of a ringside seat beside the open kitchen.
Chef Sean Clark
Chef patron Sean Clark brings his knowledge and skill to The Table. This venture follows 10 years of experience at some of the most esteemed restaurants in the land: Aqua at the Shard (London), Four Seasons at Park Lane (London), Martin Wishart’s Home House (Edinburgh) and Restaurant Gordon Ramsay (London). European influences are clearly visible in Clark’s creations (he also worked in Milan and Rome), as well as those from around the globe, and of course, Scotland.
Ten Seats, Two Chefs, One Table
Up to 10 guests take their seats at the stone countertop table, facing the kitchen, in an elegant space styled by lauded Perthshire-based interior designer Fiona Denholm. This vantage point allows diners to not only watch the food being prepared, but to chat with Sean and his fellow chef (and brother) Keith. Guests can ask questions and learn more about the ingredients and innovative cookery techniques in play. Eschewing the stuffier styles of multi-course formal dining, The Table takes a more relaxed and friendly approach.
Immersive dining
It won’t suit those who like to be in control of their meal choices, so don’t expect to be handed a menu on arrival (although you will get one as you leave). Instead, The Table delights its guests with bespoke dishes that delight diners with surprise. As such, you get what you are given (preferences and dietary requirements are not catered for). It’s the food equivalent of a blind date, as you place your taste buds into Clark’s skilled hands. This reaps rewards though, encouraging diners to sample imaginative flavours and combinations, crafted using the highest quality ingredients.
A play on words
Each course is uniquely named, incorporating humour and a sense of playfulness — which is all part of the theatre here. While the nightly offering will be a mystery, examples of past courses have included: Peter’s Last Payday (rabbit with turnip, pine nut and date); Fish Faux Pas (cod with onion, hazelnut and red wine); A Kraken Shade of Pink (squid risotto with pink Champagne); Not Every Donald has a Toad (duck with plum and wild mushroom); Cassius Cray (crayfish, mango and spicy sausage); and Werther’s Not So Original (caramel powder).
Handpicked wines can be enjoyed alongside the main event, as well as champers, crémant, port, sherry, whisky, liqueurs, beers and ciders. There’s also the option to BYOB with a small corkage charge, a rarity among restaurants offering exclusive tasting menus.
Approachable and very memorable
Diners pay upfront, much like a trip to the theatre or a concert. Bookings must be made in advance and doors are at 7pm sharp (you mustn’t arrive too early, nor too late). Bring a group, or go as a couple — anyone over the age of 12 is welcome and in keeping with the approachable ethos, there’s no dress code. However, as you’re settling in for an event that’ll last for several hours, it’s better suited to those happy to sit for some time. There’s only one sitting per night, so you can be sure of Sean and Keith’s complete, undivided attention. You won’t see the restaurant shouting about itself — there’s no marketing to speak of and just an understated sign outside. But with word of mouth having spread like wildfire, it’s tough to get a seat at The Table, so plan (and book) ahead.
The new theatre?
With the public’s ever-increasing appetite for alternative means of fine dining and the current problems of arranging large scale gatherings, perhaps these kinds of intimate culinary experiences are the new theatre. A meal at The Table is a multi-sensory experience: the visuals of artistic presentation, aromas of the food, the tactility of varying textures and cutlery, the sounds of the kitchen activity (and music), and of course, most importantly, the taste.
It’s certainly an entirely different experience from conventional dining and resembles a private dinner party — one that’s infused with fun and charisma. The Table is an ideal reservation to make for a celebration, or as an alternative treat. So be sure to add it to your Edinburgh bucket list.