Spotlight on The Duke's Umbrella in Glasgow

Located on Argyle street, just a stone’s throw away from Glasgow’s Central Station, sits The Duke’s Umbrella — a newbie gastropub specialising in fine produce and simple home-cooked food. Here, development chef John Molloy is focused on elevating pub classics and quality ingredients. “For too long this style of food has slipped into mediocrity”, Molloy says, “I’ve always wanted to cook gastropub food that’s honest and full of flavour”. Indeed, there’s nothing mediocre about The Duke’s Umbrella. He and his team – the same group who launched Glaschu on Royal Exchange Square last year – have worked tirelessly to create a relaxed and warm pub that offers food on par with plates coming out of fine dining kitchens.

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Atmosphere

The atmosphere at The Duke’s Umbrella is cosy and familiar. The dark wooden flooring, comfy red leather booths and framed photographs on the walls are nods to the traditional pubs that line the country. But look a little closer – at the opulent candle sticks dotted on each table, or the chic, smartly lit bar – and you’ll see that there’s more to this place than meets the eye. The staff are professional, efficient and kind, and the service is slick. Nothing is too much of an ask, the pub being very much child-friendly and sensitive to dietary requirements. There’s plenty of space to move about, and the large tables are perfect for groups and families. The sound of happy chatter and clinking glasses always fills the air, and with big sweeping windows, the pub feels airy and bright. The Duke’s Umbrella is the sort of place that you could whittle away several pleasurable hours.

The food

And so to the food. Chef John Molloy is a rising star in the Scottish dining scene, and it’s not difficult to see why. The menu has been curated from the finest produce, sourced only from local suppliers. All the fish, for example, comes from Bernard Corrigan’s fishmongers, who’ve been in business since 1949, and the chefs even make their own haggis on site (after all, what would a Glasgow pub be without this national delicacy?). Very few restaurants in the city make their own haggis, and often, lamb’s offal is discarded. The team here have strong opinions on food waste and work continuously to keep it to a minimum.

The menu encompasses a great deal. Crowd-pleasing pub classics (Sunday roasts, sausage and mash, fish and chips) rub shoulders with more unique, but no less moreish plates. The bar snacks include the likes of pork vindaloo croquettes, duck crackling, and fried Guindilla peppers. Our favourite starters include the Charcoal Grilled Langoustines, finished with Pernod and tarragon, and the decadent Smoked Bone Marrow Deluxe, served with hash browns, confit onions, and slow-cooked ox-cheek. Not one for the faint hearted!

The best in the country

One thing you can guarantee is that at the Duke’s Umbrella, the simple stuff is done right. The fish and chips, which, according to the team are the “best in the country”, are truly exceptional. The batter is delicate, without a trace of grease, and the fish is complimented beautifully with tarragon mayo, lemon, vinegar powder (ingenious!), and triple cooked chips. Equally pleasing is the sausage and mash special (which changes daily), and the 8oz beef burger, laden with smoked ox cheek, jalapeño cheese sauce and hash browns, sandwiched between a seeded brioche bun. The portion sizes are generous, so make sure you arrive hungry!

Veggies and vegans fear not — there’s a superb menu just for you! Real highlights include the whole smoked cauliflower with celeriac purée and black garlic, as well as the salty and piquant pea, feta and thyme fritters, served with an unctuous homemade garlic aioli, that’s so thick it will stick to the back of your spoon. You won’t be able to stop at just one, and why should you? It’s unsurprising that the dessert options are knock-out too. Scottish ingredients cooked using French methods makes for excellent tasting plates. For something fruity and nostalgic, opt for the Perthshire Strawberry Trifle, complete with a Pimms soaked sponge, orange blossom custard, vanilla cream and toasted almonds. For something less conventional, we highly recommend the Guinness panna cotta, which is beautifully offset by a caramelised mango compote. If sweets are not your thing, you’ll be pleased to hear that the cheese board is one of the finest in Glasgow, celebrating cheeses from home and abroad. Most main courses come in at under £15, which is excellent value for money considering the quality of the dishes, each prepared with great care and attention.

Drinks

It isn’t a pub without alcohol, and this is something The Duke’s Umbrella embraces with aplomb. The drinks menu was several months in the making and offers an array of exciting beverages. The signature Bloody Mary is made with Isle of Bute Ouster Gin and is served with a fresh Cumbrae oyster — fancy! We love the ‘Any Port in The Storm’ cocktail too: a heady mix of cognac, Grand Marnier, 10-year old Tawny port and Black Walnut Bitters. Alongside these, sits an extensive wine list and tasty craft beers. Sat in one of the bar’s plush armchairs, drink and nibbles in hand, we’ll guarantee that you’ll have difficulty leaving!

The Duke’s Umbrella is both unpretentious and refined. It artfully toes the line between traditional pub fare and sophisticated cookery. In short, it’s a real crowd pleaser. The perfect place to unwind on a Sunday with the family, catch up with mates over some top-notch bar snacks on a Friday, or indulge in a boozy brunch. This pub has it all.

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