Buon appetito! Sydney’s best Italian restaurants

“A Tavola” is what Italian mothers yell to their children at dinner time and means “get yourself to the table, pronto, because dinner is ready!”

Head chef and owner Eugenio Maiale named his first restaurant this to pay tribute to both his Abruzzese roots, a region in Southern Italy, as well as his mother, who passed on her love of cooking and of simple, honest, but extremely delicious Italian food.

With an open kitchen and communal marble table, this is Italian hospitality at its best. The fresh pasta is made with skilled hands, so we strongly recommend you indulge in a bowl of pappardelle with Wagyu beef, tomato and red wine, or perhaps rigatoni al ragu. There’s also a classic bistecca Fiorentina on offer, 1 kilo of prime beef cooked in the traditional Tuscan way and perfect for sharing, and you must try the olive al’Ascolana – stuffed, crumbed and deep fried olives. They are, quite simply, perfection.

And in case you need to know where to get the best Italian ingredients and food, we were lucky enough to sit down with Eugenio who gave us his tips on where to find Sydney’s best Italian food.

Dish Cult’s top pick: Olive al ‘Ascolana ($4 each)

There are many reasons to head to Bondi Beach to eat at Da Orazio. Acclaimed chef Orazio D’Elia is at the helm, so you know it’s going to be good, and the pizza is made with the “biga” method, which produces a lighter and fluffier dough.

But it’s the porchetta that is the ultimate show stopper. If you’ve never had porchetta alla Romana, a deboned Taluka Park Berkshire pork, slow roasted and cooked in the traditional Italian way, you should correct that as soon as you can.

If pork isn’t your thing, there’s plenty of other dishes to keep you interested. Silky linguine paired with blue swimmer crab and heirloom cherry tomatoes is a highlight as is the Riverina beef sirloin with cafe’de Napoli butter. Truth be told, we could make ourselves very happy just eating from the antipasti menu, especially the fried mortadella with cacio e pepe.

There’s a good chance you’ve already heard of the wood-fired bread at Totti’s. These blistered discs of pillowy, puffy goodness are almost deserving of a food review of their own, and they go perfectly with the deceptively simple list of extensive antipasti, including mozzarella and bottarga, burrata, prosciutto and ‘nduja.

There’s a lot more here than antipasti, of course. Food is designed for sharing and the menu features a solid list of pasta dishes – we love the gnochetti sardi with mussels and vongole – and a selection of roasted and grilled fish, meat and chicken. Don’t forget dessert either – the Neapolitan ice cream sandwich is the perfect way to finish.

Dish Cult’s top pick: Wood-fired bread ($14)

Headed up by a dream team of Sydney hospitality heroes, including chef Scott McComas-Williams, formerly of Bacco Osteria e Espresso and MoVida,  Ragazzi is an intimate and romantic wine bar with excellent handmade pasta and natural wines on offer.

Order a glass of Italian wine from the extensive wine list – there are more than 300 bottles! –  and make your way through a bowl of classic spaghetti cacio e pepe. The menu here is short, changes regularly, and is focused on regional specialities and seasonal ingredients, but always with that McComas-Williams flair.

Dish Cult’s top pick: Spaghetti cacio e pepe ($24)

Waterfront dining at the Finger Wharf, 21 years of popularity and classic Italian food with a modern twist all add up to Otto – an Italian institution that is perfect for celebrating those special occasions in life.

The menu is all about highlighting the great flavour of excellent quality produce, cooked carefully and with respect. You’ll find dishes such as  saffron mafaldine with braised Tajima Wagyu shin, gremolata and salted ricotta alongside an extremely indulgent grilled Southern Rock lobster with citrus butter.

The bread deserves a special mention – Otto’s sourdough is made from a 20-year-old starter and is part of what makes meals so memorable here.

Dish Cult’s top pick: Spaghetti, spanner crab, chilli and garlic crumb ($39 entree/$59 main)

What makes Matteo so good? Everything really, but the star of the show would have to be the pizza. From double proved dough that’s chewy and light to premium toppings that feature excellent quality produce, this traditional spot offers a Southern Italian taste to all those fortunate enough to grab a slice.

But there’s plenty more here to tempt those not excited by pizza (who are these people!?). The menu is inspired by the sunny region of Campania – where Naples is located – and features dishes such as veal cotoletta Milanese, risotto with four types of mushroom and chargrilled octopus from Fremantle.

BTW – we loved the spicy vodka rigatoni so much, we crowned it a Sydney must-try dish.

Dish Cult’s top pick: Spicy vodka rigatoni ($35)

The kitchen at Marta is dedicated to cucina Romana (that is, traditional Roman cuisine), made with carefully sourced produce. There’s Italian food everyone will love here, from classic amatriciana and parmigiana to prosciutto pizza and veal meatballs. Marta changes things up with a weekly Roman special pasta that’s as mysterious as it is alluring.

Drinks-wise, the list is a mixture of fun Italian cocktails and traditional Roman-inspired wine. The perfect setup for a date night (or any night involving good food), this osteria is a gem in the city you won’t want to miss.

Speaking of not missing out, don’t leave without a scoop (or two) of Roman gelato, or, even better the sour cherry ricotta tart.

Dish Cult’s top pick: Cavatelli – small shell pasta with mussels, clams, prawns, calamari and cherry tomato ($37)

Ormeggio has always been the epitome of modern Italian food in Sydney, and no less so when it reopened following the lockdowns.

Ormeggio 2.0 transforms Italian fine dining into a buzzy and approachable affair, and, in a revolutionary move, has banished meat from the menu. This truly is a seafood restaurant and you’ll find dishes like New South Wales yellowfin tuna ‘cotoletta’, Hiramasa kingfish crudo and handpicked spanner crab squid ink tagliolini.

This is Italian fine dining delivered in a very Sydney way – without the pretentious stiff upper-lip and with a strong focus on sustainability.

Dish Cult’s top pick: NSW yellowfin tuna ‘cotoletta’ ($58)

10 William Street  is a neighbourhood favourite. The vibe at this hole-in-the-wall den is buzzy and the walls perpetually ring with laughter and warm conversation.

The ideal spot for downing a quick bowl of cavatelli alla Trapanese or sharing an intimate dinner of blue swimmer crab and polenta, this cosy nook delivers on all fronts. Food here is unapologetically simple and strips things back to basics with dishes consisting of a few choice elements that don’t crowd your taste buds, but work together to form flavour-enhancing heaven.

Dish Cult’s top pick: Murray cod, ham hock and cannellini ($36)