13 Sep 2024
A long weekend in Edinburgh
One of the top places in the UK to spend a long weekend, Edinburgh has it all: lashings of history, a castle on top of a volcano, green spaces galore, a zoo, a palace, a port with a Royal yacht, beaches, glitzy shopping malls and of course, amazing restaurants, quirky bars and cosy cafes. You could very easily spend the full three days just eating and drinking your way around this iconic city. And if you do, here are some of the venues you mustn’t miss.
If you’re travelling into the city, The Doric is a great starting point for an early lunch. Opposite the railway station and Waverley Bridge with its airport bus drop-off stance, The Doric is an original gastropub and dates back to the 17th century. Gateway to the tourist hotspots of the old town, it offers bar food, an a la carte menu and a children’s menu. Tuck into a homemade lentil pie, steamed mussels, a bowl of Cullen skink, a steak with a side of fancy parmesan and truffle oil chips, or West Calder Haggis with mashed potato and turnip covered in a light Glenkinchie whisky jus. Sate your thirst with a pint of The Doric’s own I.P.A and you’re good to start an afternoon’s sightseeing.
This modern distillery is found a short walk from the centre and has taken its inspiration from the city’s rich heritage. Book a tour to find out how gin and whisky are made and the new methods changing the way the industry is working. Your expert guide will also lead you in a tasting session. However, if you’d rather do your own thing, you can book a self-guided tasting flight. The distillery and shop are open from 11.30am with tours running daily.
Once a props and costume store, this 19th-century warehouse found new life as a family-run restaurant. Close to the Grassmarket, you can arrange dinner here after visiting the castle and wandering the mediaeval lanes of the old town. Timberyard is contemporary and sophisticated, yet homely with its wood-burning stove and rustic-chic decor. The food is ingredient-led, with natural artisan products, a sublime tasting menu and a four-course menu, with optional drinks pairings from the in-house cellar. Try imaginative courses such as sweetbread with burnt cream, chicory and beetroot; monkfish served with wild sea kale, jersey royals and horseradish; and Amalfi lemon, with yoghurt and olive oil.
End your night on a literal high note, by reserving a private room at Sing City Karaoke. Choose between Hollywood, Vegas, New York and 90s-themed booths where you can belt out your favourite power ballads and pop hits while enjoying drinks via table service. An evening here is sure to leave you feeling (if not sounding) like a rock star.
Plan to spend time in the district of Leith, it’s home to many a Michelin star, celebrity chef and ground-breaking dining concepts. Begin your day with a wander from the East End of the city, along Leith Walk. You’ll soon come across this hidden gem, a hit with locals, but largely unknown within the tourist community – mainly due to its relative lack of digital presence. Word of Mouth Cafe is super wallet-friendly, with the freshest roast coffee beans and perfectly cooked eggs. There’s a great atmosphere in this cosy cafe that’s a great choice for your first meal of the day, whether you fancy a full Scottish brekkie or a feather-light pastry.
Drink and eat as much or as little as you like at The Pitt, Edinburgh’s pioneering indie street food market. If you have kids or dogs in tow, they’ll love it here too. Part al fresco, there’s also an industrial-style interior space, with street art, Persian rugs and trestle tables encouraging attendees to mix. The Pitt has had a few homes since its inception in 2015, now it’s found in an artsy, off-the-beaten-track part of the city. After 3pm, entry is £2, but pop in for lunch and you won’t pay a penny to get in; plus you can take advantage of the midday sun. Peruse the range of stalls which include seafood and obscure meaty cuts from barnacles&bones, desserts and coffee from SPOT, Scottish food specialities from Ròst and buttermilk fried chicken from The Buffalo Truck.
If you’ve saved on breakfast, then splurge on dinner. It would be a travesty to spend three days here and not experience some Michelin-starred fine dining. There are many to choose from, including Tom Kitchin’s signature venue just down the road from this one. Edinburgh-born Martin Wishart’s establishment dates back two decades. The chef brought his experience, first gained in the kitchens of Albert Roux and Marco Pierre White, back home, creating an atmosphere that is refined, but not stuffy. Native produce features heavy on his elegant tasting and market menus, and there’s a vegetarian selection including the likes of broccoli ravioli with smoked almond and yellow pepper velouté; white asparagus with smoked egg yolk and truffle vinaigrette; and Emmental souffle with creamed swiss chard.
If you head down Leith Walk, stop into Victoria for a nightcap. It’s part of a much-loved local Swedish chain – a bijou boho bar that’s relaxed, super friendly and a veteran of Edinburgh’s drinking scene. DJs play every second Saturday from 9pm, creating an upbeat vibe. And you can sample unique Scandi-inspired cocktails such as a Swedish Martini (Absolut, Rhubarb, Chambord, pineapple and lime), Hallon/Lakrits (Salmiakki, Absolut Raspberri, grenadine, soda and lime) and Bjornbar Bramble (OP Anderson Aquavit, Beefeater, Crème De Mure and lemon). As Victoria is small, it’s well worth booking your table in advance.
Immerse yourself in a traditional atmosphere with brunch at Whiski Bar and Restaurant. All the dishes here are seasonal and freshly made each day, with ingredients from premium farms and a nearby fishmonger. Try haggis eggs benny on sourdough, a vegetarian fry-up with a tattie scone, or an artisan morning roll starting at just a fiver for one filling, followed by a portion of whisky cranachan. The award-winning venue has over 300 Scotch malts, as well as lots of Scottish craft beers – you might not be ready for these mid-morning, but you can always pop by later for a dram and some live music.
Stop by this Mediterranean and Scottish-inspired cafe on Jeffrey Street for a bowl of soup, a chai, iced tea or a latte. With seating outside, it’s a convivial spot to people-watch awhile as you take in some vitamin D. You’re likely to find the cakes very tempting…