Five great restaurants owned by First Nations Australians to try

Big Esso – a Torres Strait Islander expression meaning “the biggest thank you” – is the most recent creation from catering business Mabu Mabu.

It’s an all-day bar and eatery located at Melbourne’s Fed Square on the banks of the Birrarung (Yarra River.)

Once teeming with eels, sharks, dolphins and stingrays, the river is an apt spot for Big Esso. It’s where First Nations peoples would gather long ago to hunt, cook, eat, and engage in ceremony.

Big Esso pays homage to the land’s history with its inclusive communal tables, ‘Island Radio’ featuring Blak musicians and Aussie classics, and distinctly native-inspired menu.

For a unique lunch experience, book a seat in the sunny beer garden with friends and enjoy a versatile selection of share plates, sides and beverages curated by Torres Strait Islander chef and owner Nornie Bero.

Dish Cult’s top pick: Whole quail with damper, peach, native currant stuffing and purple potato chips ($38)

Ever wanted to try a crocodile salad or kangaroo burger? Here’s your chance.

In the town of Mudgee (a 3.5 hour drive north of Sydney), you’ll find a unique outdoor bush tucker café named Warakirri.

Warakirri is a Ngembi word meaning ‘to grow in spirit and culture.’ Run by owner and proud Ngemba Weilwan woman Sharon Winsor within a set of tastefully designed shipping containers, there’s also a 100% Aboriginal-owned premium boutique shop that features Sharon’s Indigiearth label.

After your lunch, you can stock up on some of her premium bush foods and botanicals to take home with you.

The artful dishes at Warakirri highlight native Australian ingredients, such as the lightly crusted lemon myrtle barramundi, or damper with jam and wattle seed cream.

For something a bit more adventurous, why not try the saltbush and pepperberry leaf squid with salad and green ants?

Sharon also runs five-course degustation dining events featuring musical storytelling. Booking in advance is recommended.

Dish Cult’s top pick: Emu fillet with quandong glaze, wedges & lemon myrtle roasted tomato ($28)

A new favourite dinner spot in Byron Bay’s growing dining scene, Karkalla is the passion project of Bundjalung woman and MasterChef alum Mindy Woods.

Mindy’s restaurant was born of her motivation to create opportunities for all Australians to better connect with Aboriginal culture and get involved in Indigenous Australian hospitality.

Karkalla is a refined mix of elevated dining, creativity and Byron Bay boho chic.

Mindy is experimental with her use of native ingredients, including warrigal greens, Geraldton wax, wild native hibiscus, lemon myrtle, and mountain pepper.

We’re told the creamy macadamia hummus is sublime.

Dish Cult’s top pick: Snapper & organic mussel curry ($38)

Self-described as “a little oasis in Glebe”, Sydney’s The Lillypad Cafe is run by Yidinji woman Nyoka Hrabinsky and her husband.

The bright and colourful cafe offers your classic breakfast and lunch standards. On the menu you’ll find a wide array of multicultural dishes like Mexican burritos and satay tempeh burgers, except there’s a twist. Most have been adapted to incorporate local produce and flavours.

Expect ingredients like lemon-myrtle macadamia pesto, saltbush-flavoured burger patties, pepperleaf, wattleseed, bush tomatoes and finger limes.

Vegetarians, take note: the popular brunch spot is just as known for its seasonal plant-based dishes as well as its burgers.

Dish Cult’s top pick: Gangurru burger ($19)

Nestled on the edges of Capel Sound and Rosebud, Cooee is the only Indigenous café on the Mornington Peninsula. It’s run by Yamatji/Noongar woman Sharon Brindley and her daughter Shayla.

The word “cooee” originates from the Dharug language of the original inhabitants of the Sydney area, meaning “come here.” Sharon spent many of her childhood days with her grandmother who would take her out bush and teach her how to live off the land.

You’ll find this reflected in Sharon’s eclectic café menu. Beyond all the standard Aussie café classics (e.g. bacon and egg rolls, hot chips, pies and focaccias) you know and love, there’s a special range of dishes with an Indigenous spin.

For a satisfying lunch, opt for the kangaroo burger with bush tomato relish, egg and cheese, with a refreshing vegan finger lime smoothie to wash it all down.

For a more immersive experience, wander upstairs to the mezzanine gallery of original artworks by First Nations peoples.

Dish Cult’s top pick: White chocolate and wattle seed slice ($4.50)