18 Sep 2024
Where to find Edinburgh's best traditional pubs
As you might expect from a British city with a rich heritage, there’s no shortage of traditional pubs in Edinburgh. And each has its own personality. You’ll find venues whose patrons include famous authors, four-legged friends, families, sightseers, history buffs and lovers of great grub. Check out our list to find an Edinburgh pub that whets your appetite for a pint and some top scran.
Very much a ‘local’ The Bailie is situated where Stockbridge meets the New Town, in one of the city’s most refined neighbourhoods. It has a lot of regulars, who appreciate the lack of a jukebox and recorded music, in favour of sociable banter. There are some events with live bands on a Friday night, quizzes and some sporting fixtures. It serves drinks including cask ales and a ‘malt of the month’ alongside hearty dishes like sausage and mash, scampi with chips and gammon steaks. The pub has been around since the late 19th century and retains most of its original decor.
If it’s a traditionally Scottish vibe and taste you’re after, pay a visit to Teuchters Landing. The entire venue comprises a dining room, a large alfresco waterside terrace and a wonderfully cosy classic bar, the latter qualifying the venue for our list. Teuchters is much like a Highland pub; the back wall of the bar area boasts an enormous range of whiskies. Classical national dishes, cullen skink, stovies and haggis, neeps and tatties make an appearance on the menu, along with the wider British pub grub favourites of ploughmans, chip butties and steak pies. Teuchters Landing is a little further afield from the centre, in the shore area of Leith. But the small chain has another venue in the centre of town: Teuchters Bar & Bunker on William Street.
The 17th century tavern in the Old Town has been a gastropub for the past two and a half centuries. Spread over two levels, it has a bistro upstairs with the pub on the ground floor. Due to its heritage and prime location surrounded by attractions, it draws many an intrigued tourist, along with the regulars. Over 50 single malt whiskies and four cask-conditioned ales are found behind the bar, beside which visitors can take a seat. Alternatively, pull up a pew at one of the barrel tables and enjoy some live music on Friday and Saturday nights. While the pub does serve food, it only does so during the day, after that you’ll need to head upstairs for a meal. As it’s right opposite Waverley Station, it’s an ideal stop-off before or after a rail journey.
Dating back to 1434, this is one of the city’s oldest watering holes. During its long and illustrious history, it’s been a Royal residence, a storeroom/private armoury for James I, a smugglers hut (it’s found close to the Port of Leith), a hospital for plague victims, a weigh house, a retailer and a wine merchant! It still contains echoes of times past with plenty of authentic architectural features, but this is contrasted with a gastropub menu in keeping with today’s tastes. Guests can dine on delicious burgers, steaks and fish suppers, presented with finesse.
Let’s begin with The Oxford Bar’s claim to fame. It has two very famous patrons, one real and one imagined: Inspector Rebus and his creator, crime fiction writer (and Edinburgh resident) Ian Rankin. The latter has been visiting the establishment since the 1980s and explains why he loves it so on the pub’s website:
“I knew Rebus would like The Oxford Bar for the same reasons I do – no bells or whistles; just beer and conversation. And if you don’t feel like the conversation, well, no one’s going to force you. And there’s still the beer.”
But it’s not only this that draws punters to the bar affectionately known as ‘The Ox’. It’s also renowned for no-nonsense real ales and is often frequented by members of CAMRA.
Of course, we couldn’t include The Oxford Bar without covering The Cambridge, too. Like its compatriot, the pub is a stalwart of the Edinburgh drinking scene, but with quite a different atmosphere. The burgers here are the stuff of local legend. They’re exceptionally good, all homemade, come with a wide choice of toppings, and either a beef, buffalo, chargrilled chicken breast or bean-based patty. Beers and sport are also big in the venue, with a pull-out LED screen showing significant fixtures. It’s a draw for families on a Sunday afternoon in particular, with kid-sized burgers and young people allowed in the bar until 10pm. The Cambridge is also dog-friendly too.