Dean Banks opens new restaurant, Dulse

20.07.22

Dulse has found a home close to Bank’s flagship restaurant. Just a couple of minutes’ stroll from the Pompadour, it’s found on the upmarket Queensferry Street in the premises formerly inhabited by L’escargot Blanc. In addition to the main dining room, there’s a cocktail and wine bar downstairs, serving simple sharing plates. While the restaurant’s launch date was 20th July, the bar had opened a month prior to the restaurant itself, giving diners a – literal – taste of what was to come. It ties in perfectly with the start of Edinburgh’s festival season when the city’s population grows exponentially and the demand for eateries soars. 

Seaweed

The name of the restaurant has been chosen in a nod to its ever-present sea theme. ‘Dulse’ translates as a dark red edible seaweed that has flattened branching fronds and is found on northern shores. So expect there to be seaweed on the food and drink menus, and lots of it. Rich in flavour and packed with nutrients (said to improve eyesight and lower blood pressure), it’s being sourced from Mara, Scotland’s award-winning hand-harvested seaweed producer. 

Chef Dean Banks

But what of the chef who’s winning such acclaim among Edinburgh’s foodies? You may recognise Dean Banks from his time on TV’s Masterchef: The Professionals, where he reached the finals in 2018. Or if you’ve dined in Fife, you might be familiar with HAAR Restaurant and Rooms in St Andrews, owned and managed by the chef. And there is his UK-wide high-end meal box delivery company, HAAR at Home, which boomed during the pandemic. 

Plus, he has his own beverage brands; the multi-award-winning Lunan Gin (made using botanicals which include Kaffir lime leaf, Sichuan pepper, kombu seaweed, ginger and lemongrass) and Mond Vodka (which is diamond filtered for clarity), both of which can be ordered at Dulse, either as a perfect serve or in a unique cocktail.

Contemporary Scottish seafood with a twist

So what kind of food can you expect at Dulse? As Chef Dean is a champion of the nation’s natural produce, you can expect a showcase of Scottish ingredients, along with international flavours and cooking techniques. Menus will be seasonal, with a choice of small or large dishes and fresh seafood will take centre stage. Diners will be able to sample delights such as lobster crumpet with yuzu brown butter; same-day boat squid from Scotland in a tempura-style; seared halibut with kimchi hollandaise; and day boat turbot with seaweed potatoes, smoked turbot and caviar sauce. This can all be washed down with some Old World Wines from the cellar. Or try a cocktail crafted from one of Banks’ own liquors – the restaurant’s signature drink is a Pepper Dulse Martini (made with pepper seaweed infused Lunun Gin). 

Decor at Dulse

Reflecting the coastal dishes is an airy decor that’s infused with subtle sea motifs (let’s not forget, this is a city with a port and several beaches). Chic natural wood finishes, ocean-blue upholsteries, bar stools with shell-like seats, rope, jute and tungsten bulbs all contribute to the cool, contemporary vibe that pays homage to Edinburgh’s waterside location. Relaxed and intimate, it’s perfect for a modern date night, a sophisticated meal with friends, or for a refined business lunch.

A neighbourhood venue

While it’s gearing up for the tourist frenzy, Dulse is very much about the local community, too. The chef is keen for the restaurant to be a neighbourhood venue, much like its French predecessor, which had served West Enders for over two decades before closing during the pandemic. Banks has expressed his desire that this should be the kind of place where nearby residents can pop in for a plate of langoustines or grab some after-work oysters. With prices ranging from £3 for a snack dish to up to £28 for a main course, Dulse caters for a range of budgets and occasions.

Sure to attract a large amount of attention and as the summer months are so busy in Edinburgh, it’s wise to reserve a table if you want to be with a chance of sampling Banks’ latest restaurant in the next wee while. And if you fall in love with the chef’s cuisine, do try The Pompadour too.