08 Feb 2023
Welcome to Dish Cult’s ode to the food lovin chefs and cooks who dared to dream big and open new restaurants during the ongoing pandemic. NSW is doing it tough at the moment, but despite the uncertainty we’re inspired by the entrepreneurs forging ahead in this industry with some really cool new ventures.
With everyone from high-end restaurants to much loved chains pivoting to offer takeaway and comfort food in the state’s time of need, we’re here to shine a light on the Mel Gibson style bravehearts of the Sydney food scene as they push through and serve up the soul food we didn’t know we needed – but damn well deserve.
When word emerged chef Damien Monley would set up shop in Double Bay’s palatial Pallas House the Sydney food world was set abuzz. Monley, who’s famed for showcasing local produce with a twist, decamped from his Grand Bistro in the sweeping Southern Highlands of Bowral, to bring Sydneysiders his new venture – Roxy’s.
This 55-seater Dish Cult member restaurant and bar serves rustic food with a Middle Eastern spin. Local produce is accompanied with zesty za’atars, wholesome hummus and pickles that pack a punch.
Owner Damien Monley tells us “We’d spent a good 12 months pickling and preserving before lockdown hit just as were due to open, so even the planned press dinner got cancelled. On the one hand it was devastating, on the other there was definitely a sense of relief because new restaurant launches are always so rushed, and now we had some time to play with, and a more gentle arrival on the Double Bay scene.”
“5 weeks in and thanks to the huge community spirit and the beauty of having markets across the road we’ve somehow managed to double our turnover, which means more than struggling to pay wages we’ve actually been able to give more people work than we first thought possible. We’re only seeing opportunities now – this has allowed us to launch a business within a business thanks to the new pop up bar that we never would have considered if it wasn’t for the restrictions.”
So while the latest lockdown may have delayed a physical opening, Roxy’s have by no means powered down their ovens. They’re currently offering a Roxy’s At Home menu that includes a $69 Middle Eastern feast for two.
Gnocchi Gnocchi Brothers is no stranger to the Australian food scene.
The nation’s first 100 per cent dedicated Gnoccheria got its start as a two-person market stall in Brisbane in 2015. The venture, embarked upon by two best mates, expanded to six bricks-and-mortar stores throughout the Sunshine State. Off the back of their multi-million-dollar potato empire, founders Ben Cleary-Corradini and Theo Roduner, set their sights on another bustling food strip; King Street in Newtown – the heart of Sydney’s trendy inner-west.
With a Gelato Messina down the road, and local institutions like La Favola a short walk away, the sixty-seat restaurant fit right in with the Newtown food scene… Even if it’s doors had to remain shut in the midst of lockdown – but it’s since become an inner-west staple with favourites like the spicy cherry tomato and black olive gnocchi and the creamy carbonara gnocchi (pictured) available for contactless takeaway and delivery.
“Dark kitchens” and wine dinners are just two of the innovations that the brilliantly named Tequila Mockingbird have embraced during the pandemic. Nestled in a heritage-listed, converted 1898 terrace in Paddington’s Five-Ways, this Latin eatery and bar has looked at opportunities beyond a sit-down restaurant to transform the dining experience.
Residents in the inner west, inner south and lower north shore in Sydney are now able to enjoy the establishment’s “fun journey though the flavours of Latin America” with tacos, fire roasted sweet potato, and kingfish curado, on offer from the comfort of their own homes. All thanks to a dark kitchen in Sydney’s CBD, which has helped expand the restaurant’s current delivery catchment.
Dark kitchens are typically remote and, unlike a traditional restaurant, only produce food for delivery. The good news: it’s the first of a planned network throughout Sydney for Tequila Mockingbird; “This additional address will extend our delivery catchment to suburbs like Balmain, Newtown, Crows Nest & Neutral Bay from Tuesdays – Saturdays.”