08 Feb 2023
When you ask powerhouse chef Eugenio Maiale, the man behind some of Sydney’s most loved Italian restaurants, why he became a chef, the answer is simple: “Mum’s cooking”.
Eugenio, who is very proud of his Southern Italian Abruzzese heritage, says he owes his mum, a rigorous apprenticeship and a kitchen run by Italian nonnas for instilling in him a love of Italian food and the desire to use the very best ingredients.
“As soon as I could hold a fry pan, I was frying eggs and I just had a passion for being in the kitchen. I was eager to do an apprenticeship and started off as a table attendant at Rigoni’s Italian restaurant in Adelaide which led the owner Giocondo Caon, now my good friend and lifelong career mentor, to offer me an apprenticeship. I worked in a kitchen led by 10 Italian nonnas, all from different regions of Italy. I learnt from the best of the best and it was an experience that I hold very close to my heart.”
With Italy’s national day, Festa della Repubblica, just around the corner we sat down with Eugenio, whose Italian restaurant empire includes A Tavola, Flour Eggs Water and newcomer Palle, to ask him where in Sydney we should go to find the best Italian food. He revealed not just where to get the most amazing porchetta, fantastic Italian pastries or a great negroni, but that Italian chefs in this city are something of a family and totally have each other’s backs.
Italians love a good espresso. Where do you go for a good coffee?
“Mecca Coffee in Alexandria when I’m not having coffee from my own machine at home or from one of our restaurants: A Tavola, Flour Eggs Water or Palle.
Where is the best place in Sydney for Italian cakes?
“Marta roman bakery in Rushcutters Bay.”
Where would you go for an Italian cocktail or glass of wine?
“The bar at Ormeggio. They mix great cocktails and also do a great negroni.”
Where can you get amazing porchetta?
“Giovanni Pilu from Pilu at Freshwater knows a thing or two about porchetta. We had an incredible Pilu at home pack during lockdown where we had some really amazing porchetta. If you ever go to Adelaide, Marino Meats at the Central Market do some mouth-watering porchetta too. Its seriously amazing.”
What about Italian smallgoods and cheese?
“IGA at Haberfield. You actually feel like you are in Italy.”
You’ve got a special occasion coming up. What Italian restaurant would you book?
“Pilu at Freshwater is just magical. Incredible hospitality, sweeping views and the food and wine is always spot on.”
How about for a date night?
“A’Mare at Crown. Alessandro [Pavoni, Executive Chef] knows how to put the theatre on and delivers every time.”
What Italian restaurant would you go to that’s great value for money?
“Rosso Pomodoro in Balmain for great pizza, spritz and antipasto. It’s a crowd pleaser every time.”
If you could go to an Italian restaurant anywhere in the world, where would you go?
“Osteria Francescana in Modena.”
Complete this sentence: Italian food in Sydney is…
“On point.”
Is there anything else we need to know about Italian food in Sydney?
“We are absolutely spoilt for choice in Sydney when it comes to Italian food, restaurants, and culture. There is something beautiful about the Italian restaurant community – we are all very good friends and all support and encourage each other which is an absolute blessing.”
Eugenio Maiale’s After Service address book, Italian edition:
Mecca Coffee: 26 Bourke Rd, Alexandria NSW 2015
A Tavola: 348 Victoria Street, Darlinghurst NSW 2010 (also Bondi Beach)
Flour Eggs Water: Shop 3 355 Crown Street, Surry Hills NSW 2010 (also Tramsheds)
Palle: Tramsheds, 1 Dalgal Way, Forest Lodge NSW 2037
Marta Osteria and Bakery: 30 McLachlan Ave, Rushcutters Bay NSW 2010
Ormeggio at The Spit: D’Albora Marinas, Spit Rd, Mosman NSW 2088
Pilu at Freshwater: Moore Rd, Freshwater NSW 2096
Marino Meat and Food Store: GO52-54/52 Gouger St, Adelaide SA 5000
Lamonica IGA Haberfield: 155 Ramsay St, Haberfield NSW 2045
A’Mare: Crown Sydney, Level 1/1 Barangaroo Ave, Barangaroo NSW 2000
Rosso Pomodoro: 360 Darling St, Balmain NSW 2041 (also Bondi Junction)
Osteria Francescana: Via Stella, 22, 41121 Modena MO, Italy