Spanish tradition meets Northern hospitality at Evuna NQ

An authentic Spanish spot in the heart of the Northern Quarter

Set in an old bank on the busy corner where Thomas Street meets Tib Street, Evuna NQ is a welcoming space, full of wooden panelling and warm pools of light. With rustic exposed brick, European tiles and high ceilings, it feels more like a continental bistro than its predecessor on Deansgate. The rows upon rows of wine bottles that line the walls aren’t only for show – Evuna doubles up as an award-winning wine merchant, with guests invited to sample the impressive selection of boutique tipples. If you discover a new favourite, you can buy a bottle – or case– to take home.

On arrival, the restaurant feels small and intimate, reflecting the informal vibe of the surrounding area. Dining at Evuna seems to be very much a social affair, with large groups of friends laughing around the long central tables, and several window seats for couples, looking out onto the Northern Quarter streets. We were attending for a taste of the ‘Spanish Banquet Meal,’ an experience that promised a selection of tapas, a paella, the infamous wine and more. After being greeted with a welcome glass of cava, we were led to one of these bar-style seats to mull over the menu, soak up those Spanish vibes and consider the lengthy wine list.

Fine wine from across the continent

While it might not be a chain in the usual sense, the Evuna name has built somewhat of a small empire across Manchester, with a presence also in Deansgate, Altrincham and Knutsford. Specialising in importing exclusive wine from little-known vineyards in Spain, the small plate menu serves to complement your choice of beverage, instead of vice versa – a concept rarely seen on the UK restaurant scene. 

Over 15 years ago, in 2003, co-founder Jane Dowler was working in marketing when her mum invested in a small wine venture on Deansgate – along with her then partner Manuel Evuna. This was to be a ‘Spanish restaurant with a difference’ and Jane was brought onboard to help with the launch. One life-changing decision later and she was travelling to a vineyard in central Spain to learn the ropes of running a wine business. Fast forward to the present day and Evuna is still one of the only Spanish restaurants to import wines themselves, directly from the vineyards where grapes are handpicked by several generations of wine-making experts. For those wanting to learn more about the plonk, Evuna also hosts wine-tasting events across its venues which explore wine from a particular region of Spain – or even a specific winery. 

While the Evuna team might be connoisseurs, they appreciate that guests will need a helping hand – the wine list is kindly split into ‘ages,’ from the young and juicy to the mature and full-bodied. Assisted by an attentive waiter, we went for the ‘Arbeor,’ a fruity and fresh white which was almost too easy to sip. We’re told that it hails from the La Mancha region of central Spain, and the small nuggets of knowledge added a wonderful storytelling element to the dining experience. Nobody will be offended if wine isn’t your tipple of choice, as Evuna also serves Alhambra Especial, a Granada-brewed lager on draft, alongside a selection of gins and sherries.

A banquet experience for two

The choice of four tapas was a tricky one – while the menu is full of all the staples we’ve come to expect from Spanish restaurants in the UK, there are a few specials that really celebrate the regional diversity of the country. Tempted by the pan-seared sea bass and giant garlic prawns, we settled on the ‘pulpo’, Galician-style octopus on a bed of paprika and potatoes which were cooked simply until soft and juicy. While we played it safe with a serving of patatas bravas, the vegetarian options were some of the most creative we’ve seen, including a butterbean stew and Spanish take on ratatouille. The jamon croquetas were accompanied by the dreamiest parsley aioli, but the stars of the show were certainly the Iberian pork cheeks, tenderly slow-cooked until they fell apart and nestled on a bed of creamy mash. 

With the tapas quickly devoured, we had a welcome wait for the next course – perfect for sipping and taking advantage of our prime people-watching spot. Sitting by the window feels very European, and it was a fun interlude to watch the Saturday night antics on the street outside. Our anticipation was renewed by the time the seafood paella arrived, steaming hot in a cast iron pan and dressed with a crown of huge king prawns. Packed with mussels, squid and prawns, the rice was full of flavour with that glorious glutinous texture that can never quite be achieved at home. To finish off the night, we shunned some of the more traditional Spanish desserts in favour of a big slab of chocolate cake. Rich, gooey and soaking up the alcohol from the evening, it was a glorious end to a night of comforting food.

While many restaurants in Manchester are offering creative and modern takes on tapas, Evuna aren’t trying to reinvent the wheel. However, that doesn’t mean the team isn’t doing something very special. Instead, Evuna pays homage to the Spanish cuisine, staying fiercely loyal to the traditions of the country and bringing a certain authenticity that can only be found in these personal relationships with small vineyards. Paired with the passionate staff and intimate venues, they’re onto a winner. Come summer, the Northern Quarter site has a handful of tables lining the street for a spot of al fresco dining – we’ll certainly be returning to make a dent in that wine list.