In Melbourne’s Fed Square, which lies on the land of the Wurundjeri and Boonwurrung peoples, there’s a must-try dish full of the flavours of the sea and land.

Just go to Big Esso, which means the biggest thank you in Torres Strait Islander slang, and order the bush tomato pippies. You won’t be sorry.

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Is that the full name?

Nope, on the menu it’s “Bush tomato pippies, samphire, sea parsley, macadamia, charred lime”.

Where do you get it?

Big Esso, Cnr Swanston Street and Flinders St, Melbourne VIC 3000. It’s across from ACMI in the Yarra Building and while it says Mabu Mabu on the outside, you’re in the right place.

Why is it a winner?

Chef and owner of Mabu Mabu and Big Esso Nornie Bero grew up on Mer Island in the Torres Strait, and at Big Esso she wants everyone to taste the flavours of her childhood. Juicy pippies are among those memories and here she expertly pairs them with bush tomatoes, for zingy and intense flavour, and macadamias and samphire, for extra crunch. It all creates a sauce that doesn’t overwhelm the pippies, and you can mop it up with the delicious saltbush damper which comes with a butter whipped with golden syrup. If this is what the Torres Strait Islands taste like, sign us up for more!

Anything else to know?

Big Esso is all about promoting native ingredients and indigenous businesses. The cocktail list showcases both of these things, but they also have a gin list which includes the Green Ant Gin from indigenous-owned Seven Seasons distillery. And yes, it’s made from ants, but it’s well worth the try, especially in the form of the citrus-y and dry Green Ant-tini.

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