Eat like a local: Fitzroy North

Jason has lived in what he describes as “Fitzroy’s chiller cousin,” Fitzroy North for seven years. Melbourne-born and with mixed Singaporean-Italian heritage, Jason grew up in a family that knows how to appreciate good food. On holidays, he’s gorged on chilli crab at world-famous hawker markets, authentic Turkish kebabs on late nights out in Berlin, and some of the juiciest, finger-licking sticky pork ribs in the warungs of Ubud, Bali. But he still feels blessed to call Fitzroy North – and its ever-evolving array of wine bars, cafés, pubs, and restaurants – home. We sat down with Jason to get the inside scoop on a few of his Fitzroy North favourites…

Where’s your favourite place to grab a coffee?

“I love an iced latte from Taiyo Sun in the morning. It’s this grungy little Japanese café hidden at the base of an apartment complex. Not sure how they do it, but the sweetness of the cold milk perfectly balances the bitterness of the chocolatey-caramel notes of their coffee blend. It’s exactly the kind of creamy, decadent coffee that gets me out of bed early on a Sunday morning. Lucky for me – it’s less than 100 metres from my door-step.
Stroll into this tiny, light-filled café, place your order, and the polite Japanese owner in a bowler hat will promptly take your order. With only a few tables inside, you’d never know it’s there if someone didn’t point it out. After 11am, they also do these intensely moreish plates of Japanese curry rice, with thick brown curry sauce, carrots, peas, and mushrooms.”

Where would you take a friend to brunch?

“There’s no shortage of options around these parts, but honestly? I’d head straight for Tin Pot Cafe. It’s been a Fitzroy North favourite since the early nineties.
With comfy vintage furniture, tall ceilings, and soft, natural lighting, it’s easy to spend hours there. They’ve got all the basics right: good coffee, freshly squeezed juices, all the breakfast classics… plus some slightly more daring menu items to keep things modern. My partner always gets the sweet potato hash brown with smoked trout and rocket and dill salad. It’s topped with a gooey poached egg and salsa verde. I’m a fan of the scrambled eggs with prosciutto.”

You’ll find me stocking up on pantry goods at…

“My Nonna used to shop at Piedmonte’s for her Italian foods sometimes, so when I first moved to Fitzroy North, it quickly became my go-to grocery shop. I’m there every day. It’s probably one of the daggiest supermarkets in Australia, with pop hits from the early 2000’s constantly on rotation (but please – never change!) What draws me in are its Mediterranean-style butcher and deli out the back. Its amazing selection of imported meats, cheeses, and antipasti on display here puts the bigger Aussie supermarket giants to shame.
Most gourmet chefs would have to hunt down for some of the esoteric goods readily available here, such as chicken hearts or guanciale.”

The best bakery in Fitzroy North?

“The bread at Loafer is my kind of bread. They’ve nailed the texture of their sourdough – it’s chewy, fresh, fluffy, and with just the right amount of sour tang. For a quick and easy picnic lunch, my girlfriend and I will usually opt for the creamy egg salad baguette. Whatever herbs they’re using, the flavour is unreal. Enjoying it in the sun at Edinburgh Gardens is mandatory. But beware, this tiny hole-in-the-wall has long queues of locals lining up every morning. They usually sell out of their baguette rolls sometimes before 1pm, and I miss out more than I’d like.”

The sun is setting over Fitzroy North… where do you go for a cheap and cheerful dinner?

“Malaymas. I love, love, LOVE this place. It’s a cheerful family-run joint and super casual, serving what I reckon is the best Malaysian cuisine Melbourne has to offer. For one, they’ve totally nailed their laksa broth. It’s got the perfect balance of sweet, salty, spicy and umami.

I’ve tried some of the most famous laksa in Singapore… and I can say with 100% confidence – Malaymas gets it right. They’ve also got Hainanese chicken rice, soul-warming rendang curry with flaky roti, and wobbly mango pudding drenched in condensed milk, to name just a few favourites of mine. The service is attentive, everything’s cheap, and most importantly – the authentic food tastes like it was made with love. They even serve the food in the same orange tableware you find in hawker centres in Malaysia!”

Where would you go for the best pizza?

“Easy. Supermaxi. My favourite Melbourne pizza. You won’t find perfectly circular pizzas here. They’re rustic and roughly-shaped, with satisfyingly chewy bases (just like my Nonna’s) and topped with some seriously mouth-popping ingredient combinations. I’d recommend ‘The Sicilian.’ It’s a ‘bianca’-style (white) pizza with tuna, onions, capers, basil, parsley, mozzarella, and chilli. A whole one to myself is my holy-grail cheat day meal.”

Fitzroy North’s secret gem is…

“Often overlooked! A few doors down from the supermarket Piedimonte’s, there’s a bar called Monty’s. When peering into the moody, dimly-lit front bar, you’d be forgiven for thinking that’s it – a bartender busily working behind a small selection of craft beers on tap. Some incense smoking away. And a lonely-looking record player. But out the back, there’s a beer garden heaving with great vibes. A leafy, sultry drinking hole, it attracts a young crowd late into the night, when it starts to buzz with laughter, cocktails, and ambient music. It’s easy to lose track of time at Monty’s…If you’re hungry, they’ll drop a hot meal on your table from one of the neighbouring restaurants, Just Falafs and 1000 Lire pizza. Local bliss.”

Fitzroy North is a great place to eat because…

“It’s multicultural and unpretentious. Whether it’s Middle Eastern, Italian, South-East Asian, or simple pub fare you’re after, there’s something for everyone. But I’d also say it’s still fairly local.
Fitzroy might be surging with customers all over Victoria every weekend, but just down the road in Fitzroy North, you can still grab a table from most places spontaneously. It has a relaxed and casual vibe, something I appreciate. Many of the locals and business owners have lived here their whole lives, and for that reason there’s a real sense of community in Fitzroy North.”

Your Fitzroy North address book:

Taiyo Sun: 394 St Georges Rd, Fitzroy North VIC 3068

Tin Pot Cafe: 248-250 St Georges Rd, Fitzroy North VIC 3068

Piedimonte’s: 37/49A Best St, Fitzroy North VIC 3068

Loafer Bread: 146 Scotchmer St, Fitzroy North VIC 3068

Malaymas: 320 St Georges Rd, Fitzroy North VIC 3068

Supermaxi: 305 St Georges Rd, Fitzroy North VIC 3068

Monty’s: 209 St Georges Rd, Fitzroy North VIC 3068

Want more guides to Melbourne’s local neighbourhoods? If you’re heading further north, you’ll need tour guide Raffaela Ceddia’s tips on where to go in Coburg or hop over to the inner west and check out novelist Emily Spurr’s recommendations for Seddon.