After Service: Matthew Ng, Young’s Wine Rooms, Hawthorn East

Matthew, who’s worked in several Michelin-starred restaurants in his native Singapore, has spent time in Japan, South Korea and Australia. He recently returned Down Under where he is completing his culinary studies while keeping the team at Young’s Wine Rooms in line. Matthew has experience both in the kitchen and out on the floor, and most recently he was involved in establishing Sevens Kappo, an intimate six-seater Omakase fine diner in Singapore. He’s definitely one to keep an eye on, and he’s here to share his thoughts on Melbourne’s resurgent food scene.

It’s been a busy night. You flick off the lights and lock the door to Young’s. Where are you heading to grab a bite after work?

“A kebab shop just down the street from the restaurant called Garlik Kebabery. It does souvlaki and delicious lamb or chicken kebabs. I get extra chilli and garlic sauce, chips and good old Fanta orange. After having a few knock-off drinks with the crew, I always end up here. It’s simple. It hits the spot and it’s what’s available after we close.”

What’s your go-to place in Melbourne’s CBD?

“It depends on what I’m feeling. I often crave Thai food and end up at Dodee Paidang for a quick, reasonably priced bite or Coda when I feel like splurging a bit extra.”

Brunch in the city – where are you going?

“David’s in Prahran for yum cha. The dim sum is free-flowing for two hours on weekends, and the chef produces authentic Hong Kong dim sum in my opinion. At the moment, my go-to here is the fried prawn roll, which transports me back to my hometown in Singapore with every bite.”

So David’s is hitting the nostalgic feels for you. Anywhere else you visit when you’re getting a bit homesick?

“Rose Garden BBQ on Elizabeth Street. For me, it’s a great, no-frills Asian experience. You’ve got the crispy pork omelette as well as roast chicken. And the bonus aunty who scolds you from the corner table adds to the occasion. It’s cheap, there are big portions and it’s homely.”

Where are you eating breakfast?

“When I’m not cooking it myself, I pop down to Legacy in Camberwell. They’ve got a Vietnamese chef in the house, and he does delicious chilli scrambled eggs. I always add on the smoked salmon and smashed avocado. It’s lovely, fluffy eggs, and it’s very unabashedly Asian in the sense that they go full frontal with the garlic, chilli and onion. He doesn’t hold back.”

If money was no object which, to be honest, half the time we go out, it isn’t, where would you go for dinner and why?

“Hands down, Brae by Dan Hunter out in regional Victoria. Dan and the crew focus on local produce, some of which is grown on-site and sustainability and conviviality are part of the culture here too. I can’t wait until we get to go out to Birregurra. But until then, I am also looking forward to venturing out past Mornington to experience Laura at Pt. Leo Estate.”

If you could eat anywhere in the world right now, where would it be?

“Without a doubt, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay. He was an essential chef in my foundational days, and he is a large part of why I chose to focus my career on fine dining. By reading his autobiographies, from Humble Pie to Boiling Point, his passion spoke to me about how there’s a drive to get the entire food experience perfect. A close second is Geranium, a three Michelin star spot out in Denmark. They do fantastic stuff there that showcases the beautiful Nordic produce.”

You seem really into sustainability and good food. Where do you do your weekly shop?

“Boroondara Farmers Market is on every second Saturday. It’s one of my favourite spots to get a tasty snag or two for later in the week. They also have great seasonal produce from all over Victoria. On the off weeks, you can find me at South Melbourne Market getting fresh fish and seafood or picking up a few last-minute ingredients at the Camberwell Fresh Food Market.”

What do you love about the food scene in Melbourne?

“The focus is on diversity, sustainability and indigenous ingredients. Melbourne continues to push boundaries in the food world. With new restaurants focussing a lot on sustainability, we are starting to get more nose-to-tail eateries and insects popping up more regularly on menus. Melbourne also has this amalgamation of cultures, which allows for unique fusions of cuisines and ingredients.”

Matthew Ng’s After service address book:

Garlik Kebabery: 721 State Route 17, Camberwell VIC 3124

Dodee Paidang: Basement/353 Little Collins St, Melbourne VIC 3000

Coda: Basement/141 Flinders Ln, Melbourne VIC 3000

David’s Restaurant: 4 Cecil Pl, Prahran VIC 3181

Rose Garden BBQ: 435 Elizabeth St, Melbourne VIC 3000

Legacy Camberwell: 347 Camberwell Rd, Camberwell VIC 3124

Brae: 4285 Cape Otway Rd, Birregurra VIC 3242

Laura at Pt. Leo Estate: 3649 Frankston-Flinders Rd, Merricks VIC 3916

Restaurant Gordon Ramsay: 68 Royal Hospital Rd, London SW3 4HP United Kingdom

Geranium: Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, 8. Sal, 2100 København Denmark

Boroondara Farmers Market: Patterson Reserve, 484 Auburn Rd, Hawthorn VIC 3122

South Melbourne Market: 322-326 Coventry St, South Melbourne VIC 3205

Camberwell Fresh Food Market: 519-523 Riversdale Rd, Camberwell VIC 3124